Tales From the BRABAR Studio: Finding Your Bra Size with the EZ-Fit Method and Bra Size Calculator
Finding your bra size is simple with BRABAR's EZ-Fit Method and Bra Size Calculator. You only need two measurements and one subtraction to get your band and cup sizes. But let's break down the other bra sizing methods, and why they give you a size that doesn't quite fit right.
Bra shopping is overwhelming and mystifying for so many women, teens, and tweens. Teens and tweens transitioning from starter or training bras to everyday bras with proper support have an especially hard time, because there are so many misconceptions around how to measure. When you don't know your real bra size, you can't find the right teenage bra or tween bralette.
Misconception #1: The Plus-4 Method
The first misconception in bra sizing is adding plus 4 - simply put, adding four inches to your band size.
Here's a real example of how plus-4 can radically change someone's size. A teen girl came into the BRABAR Studio looking for everyday bras and halter bralettes. When asked her size, she said 32AA - which under the plus-4 method meant a 32 band and a 33-inch overbust, less than an inch of difference. As always, I offered to measure her, since 8 out of 10 girls are wearing the wrong bra size.
After measuring, her real band was 28 and her overbust was 33 inches - a 5-inch difference, a DD/E cup. Her real size was 28DD, not 32AA. From there I was able to suggest the Everyday Bra, Soft Cami Bra Top, HUG Lace Halter Bralette, and Soft V Crop.
The overbust stayed roughly the same, but the band shrank by four inches, and the cup size changed dramatically as a result. The difference between your band size and overbust measurement is what determines your cup size.
Adding plus-4 was once typical, but plus-zero, the rib cage method, is the global standard. One reason plus-4 persists is that many brands simply don't carry a band below 32, something I explained often to moms and teens who came in to be measured. When they hear a size like 28DD or 28E, they're shocked, always because of the cup size, assuming there's no way someone that size could be a DD cup. But for a 28 band, she genuinely is a DD cup, because every DD cup looks different depending on the band underneath it.
Here's another example showing why plus-4 fails even for larger-band women. A mom came in curious about BRABAR for her daughter, and I offered to measure her too, so she'd know what to expect. She told me she was a 40D, but her real band was 36, and her overbust was 44 inches, an 8-inch difference. Per the chart, 8 inches is an H cup. Her real size was 36H, which genuinely surprised her, since she'd never imagined having such a small band. But that's exactly the plus-4 pattern: the overbust stays the same, four inches get added to the band, and the true bra size hides a smaller band and bigger cup than most people ever discover.
Misconception #2: The Armpit Method
Another misconception is the armpit method - instead of measuring the band and overbust, this method measures near the top of the breasts and armpit to approximate something close to a sister size. This is incorrect. The correct band measurement is the key to a good-fitting bra.
Like plus-4, the armpit method distorts sizing in a similar way. A young adult woman came in looking for a strapless bra she believed was a 32AA. I offered to measure her, and her real size turned out to be 28C. When she described how she'd been measured elsewhere, it matched the armpit method exactly, measured near the armpit over the bust, with the band never actually measured at all. The whole result was off.
Both the plus-4 and armpit methods are outdated. At one time they may have made sense given the fabrics and construction of older bras, but times have changed, and plus-zero, the rib cage method, is the standard for all your bra sizing needs today.
The EZ-Fit Method, Step by Step
The EZ-Fit Method, also known as the rib cage method, is the key to finding your perfect-fitting bra. You can use the Bra Size Calculator directly, or follow these steps yourself.
- Get a soft measuring tape (the kind used in sewing).
- Measure your underbust (your ribcage), tape parallel to the floor, snug like a hug - this is where your support comes from. Round to the nearest even whole number for your band size.
- Measure your overbust - the fullest part of your breasts, tape parallel to the floor, not too tight and not too loose. Round to the nearest whole number.
- Subtract: overbust measurement minus band size equals cup size.
- 1 inch = A cup
- 2 inches = B cup
- 3 inches = C cup
- 4 inches = D cup
- 5 inches = DD cup or E cup
- 6 inches = DDD cup or F cup
- 7 inches = G cup
- 8 inches = H cup
Then combine your band size and cup size to get your full bra size. Very simple - no adding anything anywhere, just two measurements in the right spots and one subtraction.
Two Real Sisters, Two Real Sizes
Here are two real examples from a pair of sisters who came in specifically to get measured at BRABAR.
The first sister measured 37 inches in her underbust, rounding up to a 38 band. Her overbust measurement was 44 inches - a 6-inch difference, a DDD/F cup. Her bra size was 38DDD. She didn't buy anything that trip, but left knowing exactly what to look for next time.
The second sister measured 34 inches in her underbust - no rounding needed, a 34 band. Her overbust measurement was 40 inches - also a 6-inch difference, a DDD/F cup. Her bra size was 34DDD. She picked up the Soft V Reversible Laceback Bra in several colors.
Both sisters shared the same cup letter, DDD/F, but completely different band sizes, which means their actual bra volume and fit needs were quite different, despite sharing a cup letter. This is exactly why so many people assume DDD or F cups are automatically large: it's really just the relationship between overbust and band size, not a fixed volume.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why do two people with the same cup letter sometimes look so different?
Cup letter only reflects the difference between band and overbust, not an absolute size. A 34DDD and a 38DDD share the same 6-inch difference, but the underlying measurements, and the actual volume, are quite different.
Is the plus-4 method ever accurate?
No - it consistently produces a band that's too large and a cup that's too small relative to a person's actual measurements, regardless of their size.
How can I tell if I was measured with the armpit method in the past?
If a fitting only involved wrapping a tape near your armpits and over your bust, without ever measuring directly under your bust at the ribcage, that's the armpit method, and it's likely given you an inaccurate band size.
With all this in mind, remember to use BRABAR's Fit Guide and Bra Size Calculator to find your real bra size with ease.
