No, You’re Not Crazy—That Bra Really Does Fit Differently in Every Store

Why is my bra size so varied based on where I shop?

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Bra sizing is not universal or standardized but your confidence should be!

By: Lucy DiChristina

Don't worry, your mind is not playing tricks on you; you actually probably are a different bra size in every store. Differences in bra sizes across stores can depend on many aspects of the fitting and measurement methods a store uses. Here you will learn the background information and explanation around popular bra sizing buzzwords like “plus four method” and “sister sizing,” focusing on why these key pillars of the bra industry are inherently flawed and set women and girls up for failure, using specific examples of some of the most popular American intimate apparel stores. So we all know the feeling of going into a store and having to talk ourselves into a good mood before we dare go into the fitting room. Shopping for bras never really gets any easier, no matter how many times you do it. Why is this? Stores in America do not have a unified bra-sizing method that accurately reflects the anatomy of the body and women's needs. Instead of supporting our breasts, so many bra brands are instead supporting societal standards and traditional, yet unsuccessful ways of putting women into bras.

What Even Is The Plus Four Method?

Okay, so let me explain why the current bra system is totally setting us up to fail. Let's talk about the plus four method. Put simply, the plus four method is a mathematical formula that leads women to feel defeated and uncomfortable, unable to make sense of why they are adding and subtracting numbers from a simple measurement only to end up in a bra that constricts and inhibits women from feeling comfortable in what is supposed to be their second skin.

What Does It Mean That Bra Sizes Are Not Standardized?

Aside from the plus-four method, which keeps women from being comfortable in a bra, different stores have completely different approaches to taking bra measurements and therefore different definitions of bra sizes, which should be standardized. This lack of bra standardization forces women to feel locked into a specific bra brand as soon as they find a bra that even somewhat fits. So let's get into some of these brands and talk about why their measurement strategies are missing the mark and how they are different.

What Is Sister Sizing?

Another important thing to understand in order to fully grasp why you could be given upwards of 5 different bra sizes in different bra stores is because of sister sizing. Sister sizing has become a pillar of the bra industry, even though it rarely leads to true bra success or customer satisfaction. Sister sizing is how bra brands pretend to accommodate every single breast measurement. Sister sizing would support the belief that a 34D and a 30DDD are the same size; however, we have learned that this is not the case. Not to give anyone trust issues, but this is also why when you put your underbust and bust measurements into bra size calculators on popular retailers' websites, you will be given completely different sizes, which all don't truly fit you. It is because they are squeezing you into the best bra for you that also happens to exist within their brand's already existing sizing. In this way, brands lean into the idea that women don't actually know what to look for when finding the right bra size.

Okay, But There Is No Way The Brands I Love Do This??

Three of the leading bra brands in America have three different approaches to telling girls and women what size bra they should be trying to squeeze themselves into. Victoria's Secret, Aerie, and Skims all have different marketing strategies, ratings, and brand missions, but their biggest difference is that if you were to find your bra size on each brand's website, you would get completely different answers, and this applies to almost every U.S. bra brand. Let's start by pointing out the basic problems with their respective measurement methods and bra-sizing calculator.

Victoria's Secret (armpit method)

Victoria’s Secret sets girls up for failure from their very first step of measuring for bra sizes. They ask customers to measure their band size above their bust rather than at the ribcage, with the tape measure going under their armpits. Now, why would this be a logical method if no part of your bra sits there, and most of the support comes from the band? This way of measuring also ensures that, to find bra size, it is a very cup-centric approach: they begin by finding your cup measurement and then adjust your band measurement from that point. This method makes no sense and guarantees that the place where you get 80% of your bra’s support, your band, is the wrong size for your body.

Aerie (armpit method)

Okay, onto the next, Aerie. While we love Aerie's messaging about promoting “real bodies,” they falter when it comes to actually helping women find the right bra size.The calculator incorrectly uses the +4 bra measuring method, and the in-store tape measures are adapted to this old measuring methodology. Their biggest issue is how they promote sister sizing due to their limited band and cup size range. Same cup volume, very different fit. Although their size chart lists band measurements from 25-42 inches, their band range is limited to 30-42, and their cup range is extremely limited, offering only A-DD cup sizes for most of their bras. This makes Aerie upsize women into larger bands and force-fitting them. This limited range allows Aerie to carry only a small number of sizes that fit only a minority of women, no matter what they say about sister sizing and adding 4 inches to your bra band size.

Skims

Skims has roughly the same issues as Aerie but a slightly larger size range. Skims calculator gives bad advice and incorrectly uses the +4 bra measuring method. Putting someone with 32 underbust and 38 overbust in a 36B bra when 32DDD/F is the anatomically correct bra size for these measurements. While their wide range of bra styles is impressive, only women with very average bra sizes can shop here and actually wear the right size without falling into the trap of sister sizing. Skims band sizes range from 32-44, and cup sizes range from A-G. It is clear from the size range alone that they use sister sizing, focusing on the cups in order to compensate for their limited band sizes.

One Last Thing Before You Go

These are just issues I found with three of the most popular beginner and young adult bra brands, but so many of these issues are common across a majority of bra brands that young girls have to rely on for a well-fitting bra. I don't really think any brand has completely nailed getting women into well-fitting bras, which is why so many women and girls struggle every day with feeling uncomfortable and strained.

XOXO BRABAR

STILL HAVE QUESTIONS?

FAQS

Because there is no universal bra measuring methodology or sizing standard. Different brands use different measuring methods, fit models, grading systems, and size ranges. One store may add inches to your band measurement, another may rely heavily on sister sizing, and another may adjust sizing to fit within its existing inventory. That's why you might be told you're a 32D in one store, a 34C in another, and a 30DD somewhere else.

Sister sizing refers to moving up in the band while going down in the cup, or vice versa, to maintain a similar cup volume. For example, a 32D and a 34C are considered sister sizes. While sister sizing can be useful when a specific size is temporarily unavailable, it shouldn't be used as a substitute for finding your true size. A bra's support comes primarily from the band, so changing the band size can significantly affect comfort and fit.

Trust yourself. The best approach is to use your actual measurements as a guide, learn the signs of a good fit, and evaluate how the bra feels and supports your body rather than relying solely on a calculator's result. Treat online calculators as a starting point, not a final answer. Most retailer calculators are designed around that brand's sizing philosophy and available size range. If a brand doesn't carry your likely size, the calculator may place you into the closest size they sell.